Food and nature

Food and nature What’s to be found out there? Mushrooms Most commonly the chanterelle and cep (boletus edulus) but also edible are amethyst deceiver, hedgehog fungus, honey fungus, and cauliflower fungus. Good mushroom years are normally set by weather patterns and in the lakes that has more to do with dry spells than wet (as in Europe). Fortunately it seems that its always a good year for one type, though rarely both. Fish in the lakes There are Pike, Perch, Arctic Char, Eel and Trout, the most celebrated of these, the Char, is the most esteemed of freshwater fish, going by the name of Omble Chevalier. Eel should be the most prized of fish and historically it has been a major source of food and gastronomy but has fallen into neglect Fish recipes Perch and pike can be treated similarly, the bulk of recipes come from countries which still appreciate these fish and include use of horseradish, and a variety of stuffings including fruit, currants and prunes for example. The other well known use of these fish is for Gefilte fish and quenelles, basically a strong mousse poached as dumplings. Crayfish sauce would be an ideal accompaniment, but don’t eat the white clawed variety as they are quickly becoming extinct. This area is one of the last strongholds. Game If you can avail yourself of a gun license and permissions, there are excellent opportunities for food in the lakes. Perhaps the most prized from a culinary perspective would be the Teal and the Woodcock both relatively plentiful and in a way similar, small, migratory, powerfully and distinctively flavored. The woodcock is perhaps the more curious of the two with its unusual habits, some of which impact on its table manners. The Woodcock and Snipe are the only birds that can be eaten in their entirety, guts and all, this is because when the bird takes flight it defecates thus maintaining a clean gut, rendering the guts entirely edible (don’t try this on other birds – it’s really not at all good). Other prime local game includes, Roe and Red Deer and Hare. Red needs at least 10 days hanging. All are probably best cooked simply although there are some very complicated hare recipes, the principle problem is drying out - long roasting is not advised without barding. Fishing in the Lake District Arthur Ransome (1884 – 1967) best known today as the author of the Swallows and Amazon series of twelve books which redefined children’s fiction, was a third generation fisherman, who transmitted his passion for fish and fishing in his writing and in radio broadcasts. Many people claim to have learnt to sail from reading his books; a significant number have been hooked on fishing. The passage centres on a local farmer’s son, Jacky, teaching Dic and Dorothea to tickle – guddle in Lakeland dialect – a trout for supper. They saw his white arm plunge. They saw him bang something on a stone. He came back to them grinning with a small trout in his hand… ‘But why doesn’t the trout just bolt?’ said Dick. ‘It’s the guddling,’ said Jacky. ‘If you go for to take him he’s gone. You mun keep guddling and guddling till you’ve your fingers round the middle of him. He’ll lig quiet. But you mun keep guddling.’ The Arthur Ransome Estate. Fans of Arthur Ransome may care to join The Arthur Ransome Society, c/o Abbot Hall Art Gallery, Kendal, Cumbria LA9 5AZ for details.